If you've ever taken a cat to the vet, you've probably had an experience that goes something like this: You get the cat carrier out of the closet and suddenly your cat is nowhere to be seen. After locating the missing feline and hauling him out from under the bed, you attempt to lift him into the carrier, while he furiously resists your best efforts to get him safely inside.
The best way to avoid distressing your kitty as in the scenario above is through a process known as crate training for cats. The term "crate" refers to any type of carrier or kennel that can confine an animal for transport (or for any other reason). Crates may be made of plastic, fiberglass, or wire. Some of them break down into components: top, bottom, door-for easier cleaning. The basic idea of crate training a kitten or cat is for the animal to view the crate as a safe haven that's associated with comfort. When the crate becomes your cat's own personal space, he'll feel more secure while traveling because his personal space is going with him.
Most cat experts advocate free access crate training - that is, the crate is always out and available to the cat, with the door open, and he can enter and exit on his own. Lining your crate with comfortable bedding can make it more enticing, and it should be large enough that the cat can move around inside it. (Some cat owners prefer it to be large enough to hold a small litter pan, as well as dishes for food and water.)
Crating your cat in a carrier that he feels secure in has advantages when traveling, making trips to the vet, or moving to a new home.
If you can begin crate training when your cat is still a kitten and hasn't yet made unpleasant associations regarding the crate, the job will be easier. Kittens have a natural curiosity that will usually drive them to explore the crate on their own, especially if there is food, bedding, and a few toys inside. Kittens especially are likely to curl up in the crate just to take a nap. If you have children, teach them never to disturb the cat or kitten when it's in the crate. This will reinforce the cat's feeling of safety and comfort when he's inside.
If your adult cat has already learned to hide when the carrier comes out, it may be helpful to start out fresh with a new carrier. If you buy a crate that breaks down into three parts, you can begin with just the bottom section, and line it with a fleecy blanket so it seems more like a bed. Toys and treats may also make the spot more appealing. Once the cat has accepted the bottom of the crate, you can attach the top, and eventually the door.
If your cat still views the new crate suspiciously, try leaving delicious treats right next to it. Once he gets more comfortable, you can begin leaving them inside so he has to enter the crate to get them.
Some cat owners have successfully combined clicker training with crate training. The first step is to get your cat or kitten used to the sound of a small plastic clicker. When you have your cat's attention, give the clicker a click, and follow it immediately with a treat. Some cats will associate the click with the treat almost immediately, while others may be slower to catch on.
But once your cat readily makes the association between click and treat, he's ready for clicker crate training.
Start by rewarding your kitty for small movements toward your goal, and then shape the behavior by raising the goal. For example, at first you'll reward your cat for going near the crate at all, then for entering it. His movements should be voluntary, and you should click during the desired behavior, but reward after it.
Photo: Josh Berglund
Related Advice from Other Cat Owners
Getting a Cat Into a Carrier
We put our cat's food bowl inside the carrier. Also, include a towel you have used on your wet hair. They like the scent of their humans.
~Christina W., owner of Siamese mix
How to Trick Your Cat Into Her Carrier
Catch your cat in a big towel and wrap her up in it so that she is bundled. It will save you on scratches, and stops her from grabbing the outside of the carrier door like an octopus!
~Amanda C., owner of Tonkinese
Teach your cat to love the crate by feeding them in the crate
I prefer the hard carriers: in my opinion they are sturdier and the cat is not going to get out of it.
My carriers stay out, they are in a corner of the dinning room - one, because they eat in their carriers and two, because in an emergency I want to be able to get to them in a hurry.
You can teach any cat to load into a carrier. The key to teaching them to load, or anything you want to teach them, is to take what the kitty perceives as a bad experience and turn it into a good experience.
First put two clean soft towels and toys in the carrier. These should always stay in the carrier. Next you need to start feeding the kitty in the carrier. Mine are fed on a schedule and eat in their carriers, so when I open the door they run right in.
At first, leave the door open while they eat. Do this until your cat walks in calmly and walks out calmly. Then shut the door while they eat, but watch carefully and when they are done eating open the door and let them out. Do this for a week or so, maybe 10 days. Mine actually caught on in a few days, but each cat is different. Kitty soon learns that they are not in there for life, that the door does open, and they do come out.
Then each day, after they finish eating, leave them in for a minute or so, and gradually increase it a min, every day. Whatever your normal travel time is to the vet, work up to leaving them in the carrier for that length of time.
Training them to eat in their carriers also serves another purpose: you can get them loaded and out of the house in an emergency. I once was staying in a hotel when the fire alarm sounded. I had two terrified kittens running around the hotel room, then under the bed, etc. I started to panic about how I would get them out of there. Then it dawned on me: I opened their carrier door. It makes a squeaking sound and they both ran in the carrier. I was so grateful that I had taught them to load.
~Lisa D., owner of Maine Coon/Ragdoll
Leave the Crate Out
What's worked for me is leaving the crate or carrier out. Put a blanket or towel or something soft inside of it and maybe a bit of catnip and your cat will eventually sleep in it. Then when you need to take them to a vet and you put them in the carrier - no problem - it's already their security.
Never Had a Crate Problem
I have four cats and none of them have ever fought with me about being in the carrier.
Our carrier lives on the top of our freezer, and they like to go sit in it to keep an eye on whats going on in the kitchen. They have been used to the carrier being out for them to go into since they were kittens, and my older two are both leash trained too, which they prefer because they can look out of the window when we're in the car.
~Charlotte C., owner of four cats
Get Your Cat Used to Being in the Carrier
My cat, Calixto, loves his carrier. It was the first thing I purchased for him. He actually slept in it for the first few weeks when he started living with us because he was very ill. Currently,I leave the carrier in his quiet room open all the time for him to play in it.
When I take him to the vet I put the carrier in the living room for about 30 minutes before we head out. Then I just pick him up and with ease he allows me to put him in the carrier no problems. (Calixto is a really good cat.) When we get to the vet I open the door and allow him to step out of the carrier by himself, and then I pick him up and he sits on my lap until the vet comes. (Then Calixto freaks out!)
After the vet is done, the cat jumps right in his carrier all by himself. Sometimes if I'm going to take a short ride I take him along in the carrier -- this is important because he does not associate the carrier just with vet visits. Additionally, when he is out of control I put him in the carrier for a one-minute timeout and it works.
~Roxana C., owner of a Domestic Shorthair
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